WHERE TO GET SUPPLIES

The wood and hardware can be found at most home improvement stores. Sometimes you can find the steel there as well, I know my local Home Depot carries the coping and threshold material.

If not, you can search the internet for steel fabricators or salvage steel. Personally, I've begun buying my steel from MetalsDepot.com because of their very quick shipping and good prices. I'm not affiliated with them in any way, I just like them and their product.

If this ramp is going to stay outside, it needs to be protected from the elements. A good place to start is with pressure treated lumber, paint and a tarp. You may want to invest in a composite material for the surface too. Such as Skate Lite or Ramp Armor.

Be extra careful when working with treated lumber though, the chemicals used to treat the wood contain a poisonous pesticide.

BUILD IT

Gather your materials. This set of plans is just like the kicker plans with a 4'-0 x 7'-0 x 1'-6 tall ledge.

Start with the 2x4's for the kicker. Cut 10 pieces at 3'-10 1/2 in length (you will get 2 out of each 8' long 2x4). Set them aside. Below is a cut list referencing what else you will need and it's size.

PLYWOOD CUT LIST

Here is a plywood cut diagram in addition to the material cut list above.

Cut the plywood for the ledge and kicker by following the cut list below. This cutting diagram will allow you to use the 4 sheets of 3/4" plywood more efficiently.

BUILDING THE LEDGE

Start with the 2x4's. Cut 14 pieces 3'-7 1/2 in length. Set them aside. Cut 6 pieces at 1'-6. These determine the height of the ledge. Finally, cut 4 at 6'-10 1/2 in length.

Using two of the 6'-10 1/2 long 2x4's and three of 3'-7 1/2 long 2x4's frame the bottom of the ledge to look like this. The one in the middle is centered.

It's a good idea to pre-drill the screw locations with a 3/16" drill bit to keep the wood from splitting.

FRAMING THE TOP

Frame the top to look like this. Using two of the 6'-10 1/2 long 2x4's for the sides and eleven 3'-7 1/2 long 2x4's placed every 8" on center except where noted.

ATTACHING THE SIDES

Attach the 6 pieces that are 1'-6 in length to the bottom of the box like shown here. Put four screws in each piece, 2 through each side or cross member.

ATTACHING THE TOP

Place the top on the newly attached sides. This is easier if you flip the bottom over or lay it on its side. Put 4 screws in each just like the bottom.

Make sure the box is level and square. This is done by measuring diagonally from one corner to it's opposing corner and making sure this distance is the same as the distance from the other two corners.

ATTACHING THE PLYWOOD SIDES

Your done framing the box. Now you want to attach the plywood as shown in the picture. Cut the two short sides at 3'-10 1/2 x 1'-6. Cut the two long sides at 7'-0 x 1'-6.br>
It is not necessary to cover the entire box in plywood, I do this for extra strength and it saves the supporting 2x4's from getting blasted every time someone loses a deck.

BOLTING THE LEDGE TO THE KICKER

Now that the framing is done, center the kicker behind the ledge and drill two 9/16" holes about 6" in from the sides of the kicker.

You will want to go through both the ledges 2x4 and plywood and the kickers 2x4. That's 3 3/4" worth of wood to drill through so make sure your drill is strong and your drill bit is sharp.



Once the holes are drilled, bolt the ledges together using two, 1/2" x 5" bolts, nuts and washers.

ATTACHING THE PLYWOOD

Cover the framed ledge with a piece of 3/4" thick plywood that is 4' wide by 7'-0 long.

Cover the framed kicker with a piece of 3/4" thick plywood that is 4' wide by 6'-2 long. The plywood should just touch the ground and meet the plywood of the ledge.

ATTACHING THE MASONITE

Cover the ledge with a sheet of 1/4" masonite that is 4' wide by 7'-0 long.

Then cover the kicker with the 1/4" masonite that is 4' wide by 5'-8 long making sure the ledge masonite and the kickers masonite meets flush. Also make sure you hit the studs when you are placing the screws in the masonite. A good way to do this, is by laying out a chalk line.

ATTACHING THE STEEL

If constructed properly, you should have about 10" between the kickers masonite and the ground. This is where you place the 4' x 10", 3/16" thick sheet metal or 1/4" plastic.

Drill a 3/16" hole about 2 inches in from each side and one in the middle. After the holes are drilled, countersink each by using the 3/8" drill bit to drill down just enough so the screw heads are flush.

The steel threshold is also availabe at steel fabrication shops. You may be able to find the steel at home improvement stores too. They don't have the best selection, but it might be enough to get you by.

ATTACHING THE COPING

Cut your 8'-0 long angle iron in half. Place it on the edge and drill a 3/16" hole on each end on both sides where shown. The top and bottom dimensions are offset so the screws won't hit each other. Use about 3 screws per leg, 6 screws total per piece of angle iron.

After the holes are drilled, countersink each by using the 3/8" drill bit to drill down just enough so the screw heads are flush with the coping. This will keep your trucks and board from hitting them when you grind or slide.

SKATE IT

You are done building the skateboard kicker ledge, slap a DIYskate sticker on that beast and have fun!