HOW TO MAKE A PICNIC LEDGE

I figured I would add one more ledge before I moved on and it would be a picnic table ledge. Similar to the Stair Ledge but smaller and easier to move. It will also cost less to make. It's 4' long, 3' wide and about 1'-10 tall (at it's tallest).

As with all structures here on DIYskate, you can build it any size you want (or just one side for that matter). But for the material list to be accurate you will need to follow the plans as listed below.

WHERE TO GET YOUR SUPPLIES

The wood and hardware can be found at most home improvement stores. Sometimes you can find the steel there as well, I know my local Home Depot carries the coping and threshold material.

If not, you can search the internet for steel fabricators or salvage steel. Personally, I've begun buying my steel from MetalsDepot.com because of their very quick shipping and good prices. I'm not affiliated with them in any way, I just like them and their product.

If this ramp is going to stay outside, it needs to be protected from the elements. A good place to start is with pressure treated lumber, paint and a tarp. You may want to invest in a composite material for the surface too. Such as Skate Lite or Ramp Armor.

Be extra careful when working with treated lumber though, the chemicals used to treat the wood contain a poisonous pesticide.

PLYWOOD LAYOUT

You can get the sides and top pieces out of one piece of 3/4" thick cdx plywood if you use the layout diagram below.

Go ahead and cut the rectangular pieces now using a circular saw or a jig saw and a steady hand.

CUTTING THE 2 x 4's

Using the list below, cut your 2x4's and set them aside. You should keep them separate and mark them so you don't lose track of them. Below is a cut list referencing what else you will need and it's size.

FRAMMING THE BOTTOM

Frame the bottom using two 2x4's at 3'-10 1/2 for the sides and two 2x4's at 2'-7 for the inside framing.

It's a good idea to pre-drill the screw locations near the ends with a 3/16" drill bit to keep the wood from splitting, keep that in mind throughout the build.

FRAMING THE TOP

Build the top to look like the image above. Using two 2x4's at 3'-10 1/2 for the front and back and five 2x4's at 1'-6 placed every 11 5/8" on center as shown. Set this assembly aside for now.

ATTACHING THE SIDES

Attach two of the 1'-9 in length 2x4's to the back of the frame as shown below. Put four screws in each piece, 2 through each cross member.

Then attach the other two 2x4's to frame, 1'-6 from the inside or 1'-7 1/2" from the outside of the frame.

Note how the 2x4's are flat against the frame, this is done for additional strength.

ATTACHING THE TOP

Place the top on the newly attached sides. This is much easier if you flip the bottom up and lay it on its side. Put 4 screws in each just like the bottom. Make sure everything is level and square. If not, the ledge will rock on the ground like a wobbly table.

ATTACHING THE PLYWOOD SIDES

Using the 3/4" plywood sides you cut out earlier, attach them both to the framework as shown in the image above. You can be generous with the screws here.

When attaching plywood to 2x4's, use 1 5/8" long screws.

FRAMING THE LOWER LEDGE

Build the lower ledge's framework to look like the image above. Using two 2x4's at 3'-10 1/2 for the front and back and five 2x4's at 1'-0 placed every 11 5/8" on center as shown.

PLACING THE FRAMEWORK

Using 1 5/8" screws, screw the frame you just assembled in place inside the two sides of the ledge assembly. Make sure the frame is flush with the top and front of the 3/4" plywood sides.

Now attach the previously cut 4'-0 long by 1'-3 wide by 3/4" thick plywood front to the ledge assembly.

ATTACHING THE PLYWOOD TOPS

Using the 3/4" plywood tops you cut out earlier, attach them to the framework of the ledge as shown in the image above. Make sure you screw into the 2x4's underneath.

The plywood sheet on top is 4'-0 long by 1'-9 wide and the lower one is 4'-0 long by 10" wide.

ATTACHING THE COPING

Place the angle iron on the edge of box like shown. Drill a 3/16" hole on each end on both sides where shown. The top and bottom dimensions are offset so the screws won't hit each other. On a ledge this length you need to place a one more screw in the middle as well.

After the holes are drilled, countersink each by using the 3/8" drill bit to drill down just enough so the screw heads are flush with the coping. This will keep your trucks and board from hitting them when you grind or slide.

SKATE IT

I never really know what to say here. Usually I would say, "that's it, you've made one fine ledge" or... "Break out the radio and learn ssbsts's" but you don't need me to tell you something you already know.

So I guess I will just leave this one be. Or you could send me pictures of your finished project.